Hotel degli Orafi in Florence

My favorite hotel in Florence is the charming Hotel degli Orafi. I have stayed there about 10 times in the past six years, usually for about a week at a time.There are many reasons why I like this hotel so much, and I’m excited to share them with you.

First of all, the location is idea. It is situated on the lungarno, between the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi galleries.  Everything is within walking distance, whether you want to go across the river, or in the other direction, towards the Duomo and beyond.

Their staff is consistent; I see the same familiar faces each time I visit. Even the housekeeping staff stays the same. Each person I have encountered is warm and friendly. It really feels like home to me.

No matter how tired and stressed I am from overseas travel, as soon as I get into my room, which usually is room 403, sometimes 401, I feel completely at home.  The décor is calming, sheets are crisp and clean, and the view—well, you can’t any better than this.

Each of the rooms that I stay in overlooks the Arno and has a perfect view of the Ponte Vecchio and the Vasari Corridor. One can gaze out the window and imagine Renaissance daily life.

It is said the memory of a particular scent makes a strong impression.  Hotel degli Orafi takes care of that as well. In each bath, they provide a room freshener by the Ancient Pharmacy of Dr.Vranjes , in the scent Terra. This scent is warm and rich, and this time I purchased some to bring home, so that I may have the same scent in my own home.

Other touches include free bottled water daily in the frigo bar, a beautiful breakfast room-although I do get room service and watch the local news over tea, croissant and yogurt- and nightly turn down service which includes candies and  a weather report for the following day.

You can read more about the history of Hotel degli Orafi here, which by the way, is where A Room with a View was filmed.

And here are a few of my photos:

 Views from hotel room

Welcome Fruit Bowl

Breakfast Room Service

Florence, Home away from Home

After a very misty early AM, the streets are waking up. It's 8AM, I've had my usual room service of yogurt, brioche and tea, and am watching the local news. This hotel room has become my home away from home over the years. It is consistent, comfy and nurturing.

I'm also looking through my favorite fashion magazine, Grazia. The local magazine stand, known as an edicola in Italian,  is one of my usual stops on my first day, where I load up on Italian fashion and news magazines. I've been reading Grazia for over 30 years. It's full of glossy fashion photos of this season's trends, and has interesting articles.  This edition is heavy- I think in a pinch I  could use it to do some bicep curls!

Off this AM to Angela Caputi's shop and showroom. A presto!

Online Shops- Do They Diminish The Fascination?

One of my usual stops when I am in Florence is at the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella. Visiting and shopping there is a ritual of mine, as I always feel such a sense of calm upon entering; the scents are heavenly, and this ritual marks the beginning of a fabulous week time and again.

My favorite products are the Calendula Face Cream (one of the best face creams ever), Crema Viso Protettiva (for sensitive skin), and their potpourri. Other products I buy there are bars of soap (great for gifts), bath salts, and talcum powder, usually in their trademark melograno (pomegranate) scent.

But wait a minute, I can just order these online from their US distributor and have them shipped to my home! I have known this for a while now, but kept telling myself that I still needed to carry all these heavy (because I stock up for at least 6 months...) items back home directly from Florence, usually causing my bulging suitcase to be over the allotted weight limit.

So why the hesitation to just go ahead and order these products online? Does their easy availability from anywhere in the world make them less special? Does taking away the exclusivity make the products any less effective?

Of course the face creams are just as effective- on the other hand, yes, maybe these Italian products become less magic because anyone can buy them, and the allure is taken away a bit. Nevertheless I still adore them. I’ve given in, and am now anxiously waiting for the UPS man to knock on my door. Most probably I’ll still stop at the Farmacia on our next buying trip, just to get that unique feeling, and maybe even pick up a few new items to try.

Above you'll find a few photos of what the Farmacia looks like; and here is a link to some information. This shop is definitely worth a visit when you are in Florence, and will allow you to take a step back in time and imagine yourself back in 15th century Florence.

The Art of the Passeggiata on the Streets of Florence

Despite what one may say about Florence- there are too many tourists, it’s not like it once was, the locals can’t afford to live downtown - locals abound, they love to be out and about, and they love to be seen.

I saw this every day as I walked around the city, even on weekdays, and especially on a perfect fall Sunday afternoon. There are a few obvious differences between the passeggiata of decades past and the one of today. In the 70’s for example, everyone got all dressed up- in their Sunday best- and the stores were all closed. I was a part of that in those years, strutting along in my very high heeled Italian leather boots. But other than that, it’s exactly the same.

Young and old are out strolling with no specific destination. The purpose is to be outdoors and be seen, get a coffee, see friends, window shop, maybe buy a little something, and get refreshed for the busy week ahead. Even people from smaller local towns come to Florence on a Sunday, to pass the time and take a walk.

My friend Pia and I stopped in Piazza Santo Spirito where vendors were selling their wares. It was a combination of farmer’s market and craft fair. Inexpensive, local, and easy.

I’d love to find a way to incorporate this into my life here! The closest I’ve come is to take a walk on Newbury St., although the stress of parking certainly diminishes the experience. Need to keep working on this!

Sunday market in Piazza Sto. Spirito

Beautiful window in Florence

Busy lunch spot

Savoring Life

Italians relish their daily rituals and pleasures, and being around them gives us the freedom to do the same. The pleasure of feeding someone a home cooked meal- or of eating it- to be present in body and mind- are all qualities present in that delightful environment. All the mindfulness we endlessly hear about- it’s right there. While a lot has changed since I first started spending time in Italy, the essence remains.

Thirty years ago, I was a young student living with a family not far from the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. My “Italian brother” Giorgio, who at 29 was still living at home, would come home every day for lunch, as did I. (And yes, of course I had a mad crush on him...) Mamma was always ready with a hot meal for all of us, pasta, meat, wine and all, finished off with fresh fruit which she dutifully peeled for her adored son. Try going back to work or school after that every day!

Fast forward to 2010, and mealtime, even a lunch during the workday downtown, is still sacred. Now, there are plenty of Italians who eat a quick panino at a bar- they certainly do. But it's way different than eating a burger out of paper bag. And there’s always a caffe’ to drink, albeit tiny, that must complete the meal, along with conversation with the barista and the other regulars.

I’ve got my favorite bar, Le Logge, right near the Straw Market, which at lunchtime turns into a restaurant, with tablecloths on the small round tables, hot pastas, full meals, and salads, ready for the 1PM rush, all served on lovely dinnerware. And all the local office and shop workers pile in, ready to be fed by the mammas of the 21st century. The pleasure is reciprocal!

If you spend time in Italy, you certainly notice the care taken in preparing your purchase- and maybe it makes you feel as if the shopkeeper’s job, to wrap your selection- be it an Italian bracelet or leather purse, or even your morning brioche- with flourish, care and attention, is the most important thing they have to do in that moment. And in fact it is.

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